01. Know your history
Rightly or wrongly, the watch strap has become a benchmark of masculinity over the years – the chunkier the bracelet, it is assumed, the heavier duty the watch. It may come as something of a kick to the T-levels, then, to discover that the first wristwatches – and therefore straps – were actually made for women. Intended to be worn as a piece of jewellery akin to a ring or bracelet, it wasn’t until WWI, when digging a pocket watch out from under a trench coat became a mite impractical, that men realised they’d been doing it wrong all along.
(i) Second Skin
Leather was the first material employed for watch straps and it pretty much stayed that way until watches became waterproof and leather’s porous limitations were laid bare. If you aren’t planning on taking regular dips, however, leather is still unparalleled for elegance. Look for good quality stitching on the underside and check its origin – the best leather tends to be Italian, German or Swiss.
(ii) Metal works
Metallic straps quickly gained favour as a more durable and waterproof alternative to leather. German company Staib, founded in 1922, was/is seen by many as producer of the best metallic mesh – or Milanese – straps. Meanwhile, by the '30s Rolex had introduced its own now ubiquitous Oyster strap. Strong, striking and thanks to its large central links, it’s a style that has been imitated ever since.
(iii) Rubber soul
In the '60s an Austrian company called IsoFrane developed an alternative to rubber straps made especially for diver watches. Where rubber was sticky and prone to cracking at low temperatures while blistering in the heat, this isoprene compound, an offshoot from processing petroleum, had all the upsides of rubber (lightweight, waterproof) but with greater comfort and durability.
(iv) Wrist action
The first fabric strap was developed for British soldiers in the '70s. Its USP was that if the lugs of your watch broke, then the strap kept it on your wrist – though of course it quickly became a stylistic affectation. Curiously, fabric straps are sometimes referred to as NATOs, though not all woven straps are specifically NATOs. In order to bear that name they have to be made from one piece of woven material.
02. Dress for the occassion
In 2016 we have long since understood that stiff dress codes are meant to be manipulated, if not quite broken: navy blue on black, sneakers with suits, pattern clashing against pattern, and so on. Well, the same goes for watches and their straps – as we prove here with Breitling’s surprisingly versatile Chronomat 44 Airborne. Not only will a judicious strap switch-up alter your watch's personality, it's also the most economical way to increase the size of your collection.
